SLOW TRAVEL GUIDE: NORTHWEST SICILY
A 10-day itinerary for food lovers, sea swimmers & sunset chasers.
WHY NORTHWEST SICILY?
There’s something special about this part of Sicily. It feels untouched, raw in the best way, where the scent of citrus lingers in the air and time genuinely slows down. Expect turquoise waters, rustic hilltop towns, and meals that feel more like rituals than routines. This is a trip for those who want to feel something.
You won’t find tourist-packed landmarks on this itinerary. Instead, think: morning swims, boat days, Sicilian flatbreads, and golden hour strolls through stone-paved streets. It’s about beauty, food, and deep, grounding rest.
Note: This itinerary requires car hire. Sicily is made for road trips, having your own car lets you explore tiny villages, stop for impromptu swims, and truly set your own rhythm.
DAYS 1–3: TONNARA DI SCOPELLO & SCOPELLO TOWN
After landing in Palermo, make your way to Tonnara di Scopello, your home for the next three nights. The drive is about 1.5 hours and totally worth every winding turn. As soon as you arrive, you'll feel like you’ve stepped into another world, think old stone buildings hugging the coastline, bougainvillea trailing down walls, and the clearest turquoise water you've ever seen. It’s one of those places that gets under your skin , you arrive and instantly exhale.
The Tonnara itself is rich in history (there’s even a little museum that tells the story of the town’s tuna fishing legacy), and staying here makes you feel like you’ve been let in on a secret. You genuinely won’t want to leave. But if you do feel like exploring, the town of Scopello is just a short stroll away and full of charm.
Here’s how I’d spend my time:
Zingaro Nature Reserve Hike
Lace up, pack water and snacks, and head off for a coastal hike through Zingaro Nature Reserve. It’s absolutely stunning, with quiet coves you can swim in along the way. If you're short on time, even a couple of hours gives you a feel for the area’s natural beauty.
Wander the Town
The heart of Scopello is its tiny, sun-drenched square. Come here for ceramic shopping (some beautiful handmade pieces), a lazy aperitivo, or just to sit and people-watch.
Alimentari L’Oro di Sicilia is your go-to for picnic supplies: cheeses, olives, fresh bread, and snacks to take back to your room.
For sunset drinks, just choose whichever bar is buzzing, the square is small, and the vibe is always good.
Where to Eat
La Cialoma – Still one of my favourite meals here. Dreamy seafood and that classic Sicilian romance.
Ristorante La Tavernetta – Consistently good food, warm service, and a terrace worth requesting.
Pane Cunzatu – A no-fuss local gem. Their traditional flatbreads are salty, messy, delicious perfection.
La Terrazza – Not the best meal of my life, but still lovely with a sweet courtyard and a view that makes up for any shortcomings.
Panificio di Stabile e Anselmo – This no-frills bakery might just serve the best sfincione in Sicily. Thick, flavour-packed slices straight from the tray. Don’t leave without trying the cassatelle too, deep-fried ricotta-filled pastries that are dangerously good.
Other things to do
Hire a boat if the weather’s good, seeing the coastline from the water is something else.
Visit the Tonnara museum to get a glimpse into Scopello’s past.
DAYS 4–6: TRAPANI & THE EGADI ISLANDS
After soaking up the coastal stillness of Scopello, drive just under an hour west to Trapani. It’s a working port town, slightly rough around the edges, but full of charm and character. The kind of place where clotheslines hang between buildings, seafood stalls line the streets, and golden hour feels like a film set.
Trapani is also the perfect launchpad for a boat day you’ll never forget.
Boat Day with Mare and More
I booked a day trip with Mare and More to Favignana and Levanzo, and it was honestly magic. Small group, super relaxed, and the kind of blue water that makes you question if it’s even real. We swam straight off the boat into crystal-clear coves, had a chilled lunch onboard, and cruised past wild, untouched coastline. One of the highlights of the entire trip, don’t skip it.
Book in advance, especially in summer.
Where to Eat in Trapani
Bakery Oddo Michele – Just a few doors down from where we stayed, and the smell alone will pull you in. Fresh bread, sweet pastries, and the perfect grab-and-go spot before your boat day.
Le Vele Ristorante Pizzeria – Easily one of my favourite meals in Trapani. Their pizza is next level — thin, crispy, and topped with all the good stuff. Casual vibe but serious flavour.
Restaurant Antichi Sapori – More local, less polished, but full of heart. Get the couscous or pasta with sardines.
Colicchia – For granita. I’m still thinking about their almond and coffee combo.
Aperitivo along Via Torrearsa – Pick a spot, order a spritz, and let the world go by.
Where to Stay
Look for a boutique apartment or B&B near the historic centre so you can walk everywhere. Being close to the marina makes boat days and sunset strolls effortless.
DAYS 7–8: CEFALÙ — BEACH TOWN BLISS
From Trapani, head east to Cefalù (about 2.5 hours by car), a dreamy seaside town that looks like it’s been plucked from a postcard. This is your chance to truly slow down, think lazy mornings, salty swims, long lunches, and golden-hour wanders through cobbled laneways.
Cefalù has a softer energy. It's a little more polished and popular than Trapani, but still holds onto that classic Sicilian warmth. The old town sits right on the beach, so you can roll from espresso to ocean without missing a beat.
What to Do
Swim – The public beach is stunning, especially early morning or late afternoon when the crowds thin out.
La Rocca Hike – If you're up for it, hike to the top of La Rocca for epic panoramic views (sunrise or sunset is best).
Wander – The Duomo is beautiful, but honestly, getting lost in the laneways is the main event here. Stop for gelato, browse local boutiques, sit in the square.
Where to Eat in Cefalù
Cefalù is a culinary gem where every meal feels like a celebration. Here are some standout spots that I personally loved:
La Brace – A cozy, family-run restaurant known for its traditional Sicilian dishes. Their swordfish rolls are a must-try, offering authentic flavors in a warm setting.
Triscele – For a more upscale dining experience, Triscele offers beautifully presented seafood dishes. The gamberi crudi (raw prawns) with citrus risotto is both refreshing and indulgent.
L’Angolo delle Dolcezze – This pasticceria-gelateria serves some of the best desserts in town. Their cannoli and gelato are perfect for a sweet treat after a day of exploring.
Bar Duomo – Located in the Cathedral Square, it's an ideal spot for a morning coffee or an evening Aperol spritz, offering a front-row seat to the town's vibrant life.
Le Petit Tonneau – Enjoy a glass of local white wine on their sea-view terrace. It's a serene spot to unwind and take in the coastal beauty.
Each of these places offers a unique taste of Cefalù's rich culinary scene. Let me know if you'd like more details or additional recommendations!
Where to Stay
I stayed at Villa Totò, and it was stunning. Set up on the hill above town, it feels peaceful and tucked away, with sweeping views of Cefalù and the sea. The best part? They offer a free buggy service that drops you into the old town and picks you up when you're ready, so you get the serenity without sacrificing convenience. Highly recommend if you're after something beautiful but easy.
If you prefer to stay right in the heart of the old town, there are also plenty of boutique hotels and guesthouses where you can step straight out onto cobbled streets or wander down to the beach.
DAYS 9–10: PALERMO — CHAOTIC, COLOURFUL & COMPLETELY ALIVE
Your final stop is Palermo, Sicily’s bustling capital, gritty, vibrant, loud in all the right ways. After the quiet of Scopello, Trapani and Cefalù, this city hits differently, it’s layered and complex, full of flavour, street noise, history, and art at every turn.
It’s the kind of place where you can go from a crumbling palazzo to a food cart frying panelle on the corner, all within a block. Don’t try to do it all. Just dive into the chaos and eat your way through it.
Must-Do Experience
Book a Ballarò market tour with Linda Sarris (aka The Cheeky Chef). She's an absolute gem, knowledgeable, fun, and full of local insight. She’ll take you through the city’s most iconic market, introduce you to vendors, let you taste everything from arancine to blood orange juice, and give you a real behind-the-scenes look at Palermo's food culture.
Book in advance — she’s popular for a reason.
Street Food & Eats
Ke Palle – Wild arancina flavours (like truffle + pistachio).
Osteria Alivàru: Experience Palermitan specialties like sardine meatballs, caponata, and pasta with Sicilian red shrimp and sea urchin.
Trattoria Corona: A family-run seafood trattoria known for its daily specials and warm hospitality.
Casa Stagnitta: Indulge in traditional Sicilian granita served with warm brioch, perfect for breakfast or an afternoon treat.
Cappadonia Gelati: Enjoy artisanal gelato flavors like Bronte pistachio and jasmine flower while strolling through Palermo's charming streets.
Do
Wander the Ballarò and Vucciria markets.
Visit the Palermo Cathedral and Quattro Canti.
People-watch from a café in Piazza Marina with an espresso in hand.
Shop for ceramics or linen in the Kalsa district.
Where to Stay
Stay central, somewhere walkable to the markets, piazzas, and waterfront. Look for boutique stays with rooftop terraces for your final Aperol sunset.
