SLOW TRAVEL GUIDE: ANDROS, GREECE
A 4-day escape for slow mornings, saltwater swims & the kind of meals you’ll never forget.
Why Andros, Greece…
After years of visiting Greece, I found myself craving something different from the postcard-perfect, often overcrowded islands. Places like Santorini and Mykonos are breathtaking, but they’ve become polished versions of themselves, busy, expensive, and full of people chasing the same sunset. I wanted something quieter. Somewhere that still felt real.
Andros gave me exactly that. It’s part of the Cyclades, but it feels worlds away, rugged, green, and deeply local. Here, time slows. There’s space to breathe, to connect with the people who live here, and to experience Greece as it once was, through its food, its landscapes, and its unfiltered beauty.
4 days in Andros, Greece
You can only reach Andros by boat and that’s exactly what makes it special.
We caught the 7:50am ferry from Rafina Port, about 30–40 minutes from central Athens (depending on traffic). If you’re traveling early, I’d recommend staying at Avra Hotel in Rafina the night before. It’s right by the port and offers free transfers perfect for those early ferries and unpredictable Athens strikes.
The ferry to Andros takes around an hour and a half, and when we arrived, the wind greeted us like an old friend, strong, warm, and wild.
First stop: coffee. Then straight to Escape In Andros, just a few minutes’ walk from the port at Gavrio. The team there was so kind and easy to deal with, the car was spotless and perfect for exploring the island’s winding mountain roads. Trust me, you’ll want a car here. Public transport is rare, and the best spots are hidden behind narrow, scenic roads.
Getting Around the Island
You’ll want to hire a car as soon as you arrive in Gavrio, it’s essential for seeing Andros properly. Public transport is limited, and many of the island’s most beautiful spots are tucked away down steep, narrow roads.
That said, driving in Andros isn’t for the faint-hearted. The roads are windy, uneven, and often cliffside, so you need to be a confident driver. Especially if you’re staying somewhere more remote like Amoni Andros, I’d highly recommend hiring a 4WD, it makes the drive far easier and much safer. Once you get there, though, you’ll see it’s worth every hairpin turn.
4 days in Andros
Day 1 - Arriving at Amoni, Andros
Our stay at Amoni Andros was something I’ll never forget.
About a 25–30 minute drive from the port, tucked away on a quiet part of the island, Amoni feels like a secret you’ve been let in on. The road winds through the hills until suddenly the landscape opens, and there it is, an architectural dream perched above the sea.
Our first day was slow. We unpacked, swam in the private cove below the villa, and sat in awe of that endless Aegean blue. The kitchen opens right onto the sea, and cooking there felt cinematic, a glass of wine in hand, the smell of garlic and lemon, waves rolling beneath us.
Day 2 - Lunch in the Hills
After a morning swim, we headed toward the hills for lunch at Kossis Taverna, just outside Gavrio, a must-visit. Rustic tables shaded by vines, bread still warm from the oven, hand-cut chips, fresh salad, and the most tender oven-baked goat I’ve ever tasted. It’s the kind of meal you dream about long after you’ve left Greece.
A little further up the road you’ll find 3 Melisses Andros, a local honey producer. Andros is famous for its thyme honey, floral, rich, and fragrant and visiting felt like discovering liquid sunshine. On the drive back to Amoni, we stopped at roadside stalls to pick up local produce for dinner. This is the kind of stay where you want to cook, the kitchen, the view, the stillness, it’s pure magic.
Day 3 - Exploring Chora & an Evening in Batsi
We spent the morning driving across the island to Chora, Andros’ main town. The road winds through hills dotted with olive trees and glimpses of the sea, it’s worth taking your time. Along the way, we stopped at Livada Farm for local cheeses and jams, and Zairis Patisserie to pick up boxes of Amygdalota (almond sweets) and Kaltsounia (walnut pastries).
Once in Chora, we wandered through cobbled laneways and shopped at Rodozaxari Paradosiaka Proionta for local goods before visiting Laskari’s Pastry to taste their award-winning glyko, preserved fruit in syrup.
That evening, we made our way back toward Batsi, a charming coastal town close to Amoni. It’s lovely for a sunset stroll along the bay. We found Stamatis Tavern, a casual seaside spot where we shared grilled octopus, Greek salad, and a carafe of white wine as the sun melted into the water. If you’re there earlier in the day, Tountas Bakery is a must-stop for freshly baked pies and pastries.
Day 4 - Slow Morning & Beach Hopping
We spent our final day doing exactly what Andros is made for, moving slowly.
Mornings at Amoni have their own rhythm: coffee on the terrace, a quick swim in the cove below, and the sound of the sea echoing through the kitchen while you fry eggs or slice tomatoes for breakfast.
If you can pull yourself away from Amoni’s magic, spend your last day exploring some of the island’s beaches:
Tis Grias To Pidima – a postcard-perfect spot with its dramatic rock arch rising from the water.
Paralia Milos – quiet and golden, ideal for swimming and reading under the sun.
Αποθήκες Beach Bar – end your day here with a swim, a cold drink, and music as the sun dips behind the hills.
We finished the afternoon back at Amoni, cooking one last dinner with local produce we’d picked up along the way, grilled vegetables, olives, honey-drizzled cheese, and a bottle of local wine. It was the perfect ending to four days of simple living, slow travel, and sea air.
After soaking up the coastal stillness of Scopello, drive just under an hour west to Trapani. It’s a working port town, slightly rough around the edges, but full of charm and character. The kind of place where clotheslines hang between buildings, seafood stalls line the streets, and golden hour feels like a film set.
Trapani is also the perfect launchpad for a boat day you’ll never forget.
Our view from Amoni Andros
Andros reminded me why I fell in love with Greece in the first place, the food, the sea, the warmth of its people, and that unspoken rhythm of life that asks you to slow down and be present. Four days here felt like a deep exhale, no crowds, no rush, just connection.
If you’ve been craving a similar experience, a chance to slow down, eat well, and reconnect with yourself, I’d love to welcome you on one of my Savour the Slow retreats. They’re built around the same values that make places like Andros so special: food, culture, and community, the real Greece.